There are many terms that are unique to rings and jewellery, and we have produced this glossary to explain terms that you may not understand. We are adding words all the time, but if we have missed any, then please let us know!
Alloy- An alloy is a combination of two or more metals. The most common alloys used in ring and jewellery in the UK are:
- Gold 9ct (37.5% gold with varying amounts of other metals such as silver depending on colour and other characteristics wanted)
- Gold 18ct (75% gold)
- Gold 22ct (91.6% and very soft, too soft for rings)
- Platinum (95% platinum)
- Silver Sterling (92.5% silver)
- Pewter (92% tin with lead, antimony and a bit of silver or copper)
Baguette Cut is a diamond cut that is usuall rectangular but can also be tapered
Baroquerefers to irregularly shaped stones or pearls.
Brilliant Cut is a facet cut diamond. This is one of the most popular cuts today.
Cabachon is a stone that has a rounded, domed surface with no facets.
Carat Scale is the system that is used to measure the purity of gold. Pure gold is 24 carat and all other standards are fractions of this; for example, 18 carat is 18 parts gold out of 24, or 75%. This is also commonly shown as 750 (750 parts per 1000). Click here for more details in our hallmarks section.
Carat (usually abbreviated ct in the UK or K elsewhere) is a measure of the fineness of gold, where 24ct gold is pure gold (although this is not a fineness that you can buy as it is too soft for jewellery). 9ct gold is 9/24 gold (about 37.5% or 3/8 gold) and 18ct gold is 18/24 gold (about 75% or ¾ gold). The other standards in the UK are 22ct gold, which is 22/24 gold (about 91% gold) and 14ct gold, which is 14/24 gold (about 58% gold), but these are much less commonly used.
Carat Weight. Confusingly the word Carat is also used as the scale to measure the weight of a diamond! 1 metric carat is equal to 0.2 grams.
Cathedral Setting. A cathedral ring setting is a simple band with arcs like the arches of a cathedral nave when seen from the side.
Claddagh is a symbol that belongs to a group of finger rings called Fede or “Faith rings” which date from Roman times. Fede rings have the form of two clasped hands, symbolising faith, trust or “plighted troth”. It is one of the more popular forms of Celtic jewellery. The Claddagh ring is particularly distinctive with two hands clasping a heart surmounted by a crown. The Heart symbolises Love, the hands Faith in Friendship and the Crown Loyalty. The way in which a Claddagh ring is worn is important. Traditionally, when placed on the right hand with the heart facing out (i.e. with the crown facing in), the wearer’s heart is still searching. When placed on the right hand with the heart facing in, there are possibilities. And when worn on the left hand with the heart facing in, your heart is truly spoken for.
Coronet Setting (also called châton or arcade setting) is one in which the stone is held in by many metal claws around a metal ring.
Diamanté stones (also known as Rhinestones) are highly reflective glass made to imitate gemstones. The originals were colourless quartz obtained from the River Rhine, which were cut in an attempt to resemble diamonds. The finest diamanté today is made of highly reflective lead glass, which is facetted and polished.
Electrosonic cleaner is a type of jewellery cleaning machine that cleans using sonic waves. While not as powerful as professional ultrasonic cleaners, it is a very effective way to share some of the same benefits in the home.
Embossing is a stamping technique in which a pattern (for example a scroll pattern similar to an engraved effect) is pressed onto a plain area of metal to leave the pattern in relief, i.e. standing proud above the plain background rather than cut in as in the case of engraving
Emerald Cut is a rectangular cut that is often used for emeralds (hence the name), but it is also for diamonds and other stones.
Facet is one of the flat surfaces of a cut stone or glass. Faceting is the cutting and polishing of the surface of a stone
Fineness is the proportion of silver or gold in a metal alloy. Fineness is usually expressed in parts per thousand. For example, the fineness of sterling silver is 925.
Gipsy style (or gypsy) ring is one with a recessed stone or stones. Also known as a star setting.
Girdle is the widest perimeter of a gemstone.
Hallmark is a mark, or series of marks, on a piece of gold, silver or platinum jewellery to guarantee the purity of the metal. In the UK this is applied by an Assay office and is a legally required mark for precious metal items over a specific weight. As the oldest form of quality marking in the world dating back to the 13th century, the hallmark can be considered as the very first example of consumer protection. It also provides information such as the year of manufacture and the maker.
Head is the top part of a ring visible on top of the finger. This might be the gemstones and their setting or the flat gold area of a man’s signet ring. See also shank and shoulders.
Intaglio is a method of decoration in which a design is cut into the surface. Signet rings are frequently decorated with intaglio, as are seals.
Karat
Keeper ring is a ring that is used alongside another, more valuable ring to keep it securely on the finger. One classic design for a keeper ring is a gun shot ring.
Marquise Cut is a fancy “boat shaped” diamond cut.
Minimum Weight
Diamonds - All total weights of 10 points or over that we quote are guaranteed minimum weights. This ensures that you know what you are getting from us. Due to the importance of matching stone sizes, weights under 10 points are approximate, but even then, we ensure that the average weight of the items we sell is at least as much as we quote and frequently it will weigh a little more than this.
Gold Jewellery – because of manufacturing processes, gold chains of similar length vary slightly in weight. This is particularly true of chains with fancy links, which are often hand finished. We therefore quote approximate weights (10% tolerance), but even then, we ensure that the average weight of the items we sell is at least as much as we quote and frequently it will weigh a little more than this.
Nickel is a metal that was frequently used in fashion jewellery and occasionally as an alloy in gold jewellery. However, some people have an allergy or skin reaction to nickel which results in a rash. Recent European legislation, the “Nickel Directive”, strictly defines the amount of nickel that jewellery can contain, to ensure that it remains far below the level at which such skin reactions could become likely.
Pavilion is the top section of a gemstone above its widest point (the girdle).
Princess Cut (also called a Quadrillion or Squarillion cut) is a square-cut diamond equivalent to a brilliant cut.
Rhodium plated is a transition element, belonging to the platinum group of metals. Rhodium plating is silvery-white in colour and used to both harden the surface it covers, and to create a brighter, more polished look to gold, especially white gold. Gemstones then show to their best effect and the claws holding the gems are firmer and less likely to damage. Rhodium plated jewellery is extremely hard wearing, tarnish resistant and will not be affected by body enzymes, perfumes and hair sprays, helping it to look good for years to come.
Rolled Gold is a traditional process invented in the 19th century in which a sheet of gold is laminated to a base metal (usually brass). The two layers of metal are heated under pressure to fuse them together. This is then rolled to make a thinner sheet, which can be used to make jewellery or other objects. Although not solid gold, this method produces items that wear well over time. Rolled gold pieces are often marked rolled gold plate, “RG” or “RGP”. The proportion of gold is identified by weight in terms of total metal content (e.g. 1/20). Rolled gold is most often used today to manufacture heavy items that will receive a lot of wear, such as bangles, and which would be very expensive if made from solid gold.
Settings – A setting is a method of securing a stone in a piece of jewellery. There are many different types of setting.
Trillion cut is a triangular version of a brilliant cut with truncated corners.